The Hokianga by Campervan: The Car Ferry, Rawene and Ōpononi’s Giant Dunes

Quick summary: The Hokianga is Northland’s soulful west coast, a vast, quiet harbour reaching far inland from the Tasman Sea, with towering golden sand dunes at its mouth. For campervan and motorhome travellers heading south from the far north, a short car ferry crosses the harbour from Kohukohu to Rawene, then the road runs to the twin settlements of Ōpononi and Omapere at the harbour entrance. It’s one of the most beautiful and least visited parts of the North Island.

At a glance
From the far north	Kaitāia to Kohukohu via back roads, then the car ferry to Rawene
From the Bay of Islands	Paihia to Ōpononi via Kaikohe, around 90 km
Car ferry	Kohukohu to Rawene, a crossing of around 15 minutes
Rawene to Ōpononi	Around 20 km
Key stops	Kohukohu, Rawene, Ōpononi, Omapere, Arai te Uru, Koutu Point
Signature experiences	The car ferry, sandboarding the North Head dunes, the harbour heads walk
Overnight options	Holiday parks and campgrounds around Rawene, Ōpononi and Omapere
Best for	Culture, history, wild scenery and getting off the beaten track

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Why is the Hokianga so special?

Because it has a deep sense of history and place. According to tradition, the great Polynesian navigator Kupe set out from the Hokianga to return to his homeland, and the harbour’s full name, Te Hokianga-nui-a-Kupe, means “the place of Kupe’s great return”. Its shores hold some of the earliest mission stations and trading posts in New Zealand, and small communities where Māori culture is strong. The landscape is wild and beautiful, from the mangrove-lined inner harbour to the huge dunes at the heads.

How do you get to the Hokianga?

There are two main approaches:

• From the far north, travelling south from Kaitāia, take the back roads to Kohukohu on the northern side of the harbour and cross on the car ferry to Rawene. This is the route that links the far north with the west coast on the Twin Coast loop.
• From the Bay of Islands, drive west from Paihia through Kaikohe to Ōpononi, around 90 km.

How does the Hokianga car ferry work?

A vehicle ferry crosses the harbour between Kohukohu and Rawene, a trip of around 15 minutes. It carries cars and campervans, and you buy your ticket on board. The ferry runs to a timetable, so check the current crossing times before you plan your day, especially for the first and last sailings. Waiting at the ramp with the harbour in front of you is part of the charm.

Does the Hokianga car ferry take a large RV?

Yes. The ferry carries campervans and motorhomes, including heavier vehicles, as well as cars. Drive on carefully at the crew’s direction, and allow for the ramps on each side, which slope down to the water. If your vehicle is especially long, check with the operator before travelling.

What are the best stops around the Hokianga?

Stop	Location	Time to allow	What’s there
Kohukohu	North side of the harbour	30 min	Historic village with old buildings
Rawene	South side of the harbour	1 hour	Historic town, Clendon House, waterfront cafés
Koutu Point (detour)	Near Ōpononi	30 min	Large spherical boulders on the shore, at low tide
Ōpononi	Harbour mouth	Half a day	Waterfront, views of the dunes
Omapere	Harbour mouth	1–2 hours	Village and the start of the heads walk
Arai te Uru	South Head	1 hour	Headland walk overlooking the harbour bar

Kohukohu and Rawene

Kohukohu, on the northern shore, was once a busy timber town and keeps many of its historic buildings. Across the water, Rawene is one of New Zealand’s oldest European settlements, with Clendon House, a historic home, and cafés on stilts over the harbour.

Ōpononi and Omapere

At the harbour mouth, the twin settlements of Ōpononi and Omapere look across the water to the towering sand dunes of North Head. Ōpononi is famous for Opo, a friendly wild dolphin who played with swimmers here in the 1950s era, and is remembered with a statue. At Omapere, a walk leads out to the Arai te Uru headland at South Head, with dramatic views over the harbour bar and the Tasman Sea.

What tours and experiences are available?

• Sand dune trips. Boats cross the harbour from Ōpononi to the North Head dunes for sandboarding and exploring.
• Guided cultural walks sharing the stories of Kupe and the Hokianga.
• Kauri forest experiences in nearby Waipoua Forest, including guided night walks. See kauri forest tours and our Kauri Coast route.
• Harbour fishing and quiet walks along the shore.

Where can you stay overnight?

• Holiday parks and campgrounds around Ōpononi and Omapere, some with harbour views.
• Rawene, with a campground close to the ferry.
• Self-contained freedom camping is limited around the Hokianga and only for certified self-contained vehicles where Far North District Council permits it. See our Northland freedom camping guide.

What is the driving like?

The roads around the Hokianga are sealed on the main routes but often narrow, hilly and winding, with one-lane bridges. Some back roads are unsealed, so check your rental terms and your route before you set off from Kaitāia. Services are limited, so fill up beforehand. The harbour bar at the heads is dangerous, so don’t swim near it; see our beach safety guide.

What comes next?

Continue south along the Kauri Coast through Waipoua Forest to Tāne Mahuta and Dargaville.

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Frequently Asked Questions