Whangārei to Paihia by Campervan: Kawakawa, Glowworms and the Bay of Islands

Quick summary: The run from Whangārei to Paihia is a short campervan or motorhome drive of around 70 km, about an hour, but it has some memorable stops. The highway rolls through farmland to Kawakawa, a small town famous for its colourful Hundertwasser-designed public toilets, with glowworm caves and a historic battle site close by. From Kawakawa, a short road leads past Opua to Paihia and the first views of the Bay of Islands.

At a glance
Distance	Around 70 km
Driving time	Around 1 hour
Suggested time	Half a day with stops
Road	State Highway 1 to Kawakawa, then State Highway 11 to Paihia; sealed and gently rolling
Key stops	Hikurangi, Ruapekapeka Pā, Kawakawa, the glowworm caves, Opua, Paihia
Signature experiences	Hundertwasser toilets, glowworm caves, the vintage railway
Overnight options	Whangārei, Paihia and the Bay of Islands
Best for	An easy drive with interesting stops

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What makes this short leg worth slowing down for?

Kawakawa and its surroundings pack a surprising amount of interest into a small area: an internationally famous artist’s public toilets, a heritage railway running down the main street, glowworm caves on a family-run property, and one of the most important battle sites of the New Zealand Wars. All are within a few minutes of the highway, so they turn a simple transfer into an enjoyable half day.

What are the best stops between Whangārei and Paihia?

Stop	Distance from Whangārei	Time to allow	What’s there
Hikurangi	Around 15 km	10 min	Small town; turn-off for the coast roads
Ruapekapeka Pā (detour)	Around 45 km	1 hour	Historic battle site with earthworks
Glowworm caves near Kawakawa	Around 52 km	1 hour	Guided cave tours
Kawakawa	Around 57 km	30 min to 1 hr	Hundertwasser toilets, vintage railway
Opua	Around 67 km	30 min	Marina and the Russell car ferry
Paihia	Around 74 km	2–3 days	The heart of the Bay of Islands

Ruapekapeka Pā

A short detour from State Highway 1 south of Kawakawa leads to Ruapekapeka Pā, the site of a major battle of the New Zealand Wars. The earthworks, trenches and gun pits of the fortified pā are still clearly visible, with interpretation boards explaining the battle. The last part of the access road is unsealed, so check your rental terms.

The glowworm caves

Just south of Kawakawa, guided tours lead into a limestone cave system on Māori land, where glowworms light the ceiling like stars. See glowworm cave tours.

Kawakawa

Kawakawa’s public toilets were designed by the Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, who lived nearby, and they are a riot of colourful tiles, bottles, mosaics and curving walls, with a living tree growing through the roof. Next to them, the railway line runs right down the middle of the main street, and a heritage railway operates vintage trains on its running days.

Opua

On the way into Paihia, Opua is a busy marina and the departure point for the car ferry to Russell. See our Russell car ferry guide.

Can you stop an RV in Kawakawa to see the Hundertwasser toilets?

Yes. Kawakawa’s main street is on State Highway 1, and there is parking along it and nearby, though long spaces fill quickly at busy times. Look for parking a little away from the centre if the main street is full, and walk back. Keep an eye out for the railway line that runs down the middle of the street.

Is there an alternative route?

From Whangārei, a slower scenic route heads along the Tutukaka Coast, then via back roads towards Russell. It is longer and winding, with some unsealed sections, so check your rental terms first. See our Tutukaka Coast route.

Where can you stay overnight?

Most travellers continue to Paihia, where holiday parks sit close to the waterfront. See our Paihia campervan base guide. Whangārei has holiday parks if you’re staying south of the bay. Freedom camping on this route is limited and only for certified self-contained vehicles where the Whangārei or Far North council permits it. See our Northland freedom camping guide.

What comes next?

From Paihia, spend two or three days exploring the Bay of Islands, then continue north to Doubtless Bay, or head west to the Hokianga.

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Frequently Asked Questions